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Going Up

Going Up

Climbing is, without a doubt, an essential part of highlining, BASE jumping or playing in the mountains in general. One of the primary challenges with all these pursuits is accessing hard to reach places or simply getting to the exposure where we can perform, but for some athletes the climb is both the means and the end. In this post, I’d like to examine a pair of adventure seekers who’ve found themselves maniacally devoting their energy and time to the vertical ascent, in all types of environments around the world. Ranging from the alpine mountains of Patagonia to the legendary big walls of Yosemite, both Brad Gobright and Scott Bennett are elite rock climbers who find themselves chasing their dreams on scary routes, ascending big wall classics (sometimes without ropes) and smashing speed record link ups everywhere they go.

Spank the Monkey Arete

Brad Gobright hugs tight on The Backbone (5.13a) of the Monkey.

I first met Brad many years ago, while climbing throughout Joshua Tree and the Sierra Nevada mountain range of California. He initially came off as your average dirtbag climber nomadically seeking out hard rock routes, a pretty typical story amongst this community. His very unassuming presence, goofy personality and diet dominated by pastries made Brad seem a pretty average but quirky guy. After spending many months trading belays and witnessing his finesse on the rock, it was obvious there was something special about his gift. Brad simply and utterly lives to climb on rock, he is obsessed. He also likes to climb without a rope, quite a lot actually, sometimes free-soloing several thousand feet on very technical terrain with calm and cool demeanor. Despite his young age, every move on the rock reflects decades more of rock climbing experience in the body of a young determined man. His confidence and skill in the vertical world make it obvious he’s been going up his whole life, which he pretty much has been since his infancy. Examining the impressive resume of climbing achievements in his short 25 years of life, and his prowess as a well rounded athlete and committed climber is inspiring beyond words. As is the case with many climbers, Brad tends to fly under the radar of mainstream publicity living out of a small hatchback Civic traversing the country and living in Yosemite many months out of the year to work on first ascents and big wall projects. He is driven by a fearless psyche I can only try to comprehend, always surrounding himself with some of the best climbers in the world who add to the stoke of his internal fire.

Scott Bennett with his on-sight lead of The North Face (5.12a) of the Monkey Face.

Scott Bennett with his on-sight lead on The North Face (5.12a) of the Monkey Face, a 200 foot stretcher in length.

Scott Bennett is one of his many incredible climbing partners, who also quietly boasts an adventurous and experienced background. He’s been published in several sources for his alpine achievements and speedy ascents which all require a good set of lungs and endurance. His energy level seems to never fade or falter, sometimes going for long runs at the end of a very hard day of climbing to train. Some professional athletes appear to be either motivated by fame or fortune, but in the world of rock climbing very few ever achieve this type of recognition. The lifestyle of being a dirtbag isn’t “popular” so to speak and for that reason it attracts a certain type of person committed to their discipline for all the right reasons. This is why climbing remains a very pure and honest lifestyle and sport. Brad and Scott are an incredible duo when teamed up, fueled by shared dreams and goals of climbing longer, harder and more technical routes for the sake of improving their craft and pushing the limits. I met up with these two rock junkies back in the summer of 2011, as they were passing through Smith Rock State Park looking for hard sends to complete and new speed climbing records to shatter. Which is essentially, what they did… Both climbers, boldly onsight free-soloed the 3 amazing pitches of Zebra Zion in crisp cool conditions (read: very hot and undesirable temps), and got the redpoint sends of The Quickening 5.12d (for Scott) and The Backbone 5.13a (for Brad). Of course many other feats were accomplished, such as Brad’s new speed solo ascent of climbing the classic Monkey Face tower (over 300 feet of vertical gain) in an impressive 3.25 minutes, without a rope. Scott also established a new mixed endurance speed record of the “Monkey to Monkey” time in just under 22 minutes. This challenge was a mixed race of running and climbing, starting on the plastic monkey boulder from the Bivouac campground and ending atop the real Monkey in similar fashion as Brad. After crushing dozens of other routes in the park, these two set off on their respective paths to bigger projects in Yosemite and Patagonia. Much thanks to both gentleman for allowing me to capture and witness their impressive and life long passion of ascending rock. Here is some evidence of their accomplishments.

Spank the Monkey Arete

Scott Bennett on the sharp end of The Backbone (5.13a).

Spank the Monkey Arete

Brad Gobright nearing the top of The Backbone (5.13a).

Brad Gobright working through the long overhung moves on Aggro Monkey (5.13b).

Brad Gobright working through the long overhung moves on Aggro Monkey (5.13b).

Brad Gobright setting the new standard of speed climbing on the Monkey. He was able to climb the 300 vertical feet, without a rope, in 3.25 minutes, the current speed record on this infamous feature.

Brad Gobright setting the new standard of speed climbing the Monkey. He was able to climb the 300 vertical feet of The Pioneers Route (without a rope) in 3.25 minutes. The time stands as the Monkey’s fastest ascent.

Scott Bennett improving his speed solo ascent time on the monkey, sans ropes.

Scott Bennett improving his speed solo ascent time on the Monkey, sans ropes.

One Comment Post a comment
  1. ropeandsummit #

    Great post Brian, I love the photos! I think that arete that Brad sent was actually “The Backbone”, though.

    February 9, 2013

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